DOMOVINA DAY 8

Postcards From Croatia - Trakošćan, Zagorje & Varaždin

Trakošćan Castle

Day 8 was a day of castles, Croatian traditions, hidden angels and a lot of laughter. It was the kind of day that seemed to keep getting better as it went on, with something completely different around every corner.

Jackie, Kristina & Marija at Trakošćan Castle

We visited Trakošćan Castle, exploring the castle and its grounds before continuing on to Stari grad Ozalj, the old castle overlooking the Kupa River. We also spent time in Krašić, learning about Alojzije Stepinac and his connection to the town.

Trakošćan Castle

We stopped for lunch at Vinarija Micak, in the heart of Zagorje, where we sat down for a proper Croatian lunch before continuing on with the day.

One of my favourite parts of the day was our Licitar heart workshop at Medičarna Ščurić. I had seen Licitar hearts before, but I had never really thought about what went into making them or why they were so significant.

We learned how the traditional dough is prepared, shaped into the familiar heart forms and baked before being left to dry. Once ready, the hearts are coated in their distinctive red colour and then carefully decorated by hand with intricate white patterns, flowers and other details. The little mirror in the centre is one of their most recognisable features.

But the heart isn't simply a decoration. Licitar hearts have traditionally been given as gifts to express love, affection, friendship and respect. The mirror in the centre adds another layer of meaning, reflecting the person who receives it.

Then we got to make and decorate our own. I loved the whole process, especially knowing that we were making something that has been part of Croatian tradition for generations. It was messy, creative and completely different from just being shown a finished heart in a shop. We got to make our own and take it with us.

After that, we spent time in Varaždin, where we did a small tour around the city and learned about its nickname, the city where angels sleep.

Tiny angels are hidden throughout Varaždin, tucked into windows, buildings, rooftops and all sorts of places you might never notice if you weren't looking for them. The idea is connected to Varaždin artist Željko Prstec, whose distinctive angels have become part of the identity of the city.

Once we knew they were there, we couldn't not look for them.

Varaždin

We wandered around the city spotting the little baby angels wherever we could, constantly looking up and checking different corners to see if we'd find another one. We eventually ended up at the Museum of Angels, where we saw even more of Prstec's work and learned more about the story behind the angels.

We then headed to dinner, where we sat across multiple long tables and settled in for the evening. There was plenty of food, plenty of wine and, as always, plenty of laughter. By this point, everyone was tired, but we were having far too much fun to care.

Once we finished our meal, it started pouring with rain on the walk back to the bus. We all sprinted through it trying not to get completely soaked. By the time we got on, everyone was a little tipsy, giggling, singing and dancing, and pretty much the whole bus ride back to the hotel turned into a party.

We were exhausted, slightly tipsy and probably looked completely chaotic, but nobody wanted the night to end. Everyone was just carrying on, laughing and singing together.

Looking through the photos and videos now, I wish I could relive it all. There was so much happening every day that it was impossible to know what the next day would bring, and I think that's what made the whole trip so exciting. Everything was new, the endorphins were high, and we were constantly caught up in whatever was happening right in front of us. I would give anything to have some of those days back.