DAY 6
Postcard from Croatia - Šibenik
We all got up early that morning, had breakfast and checked out of our hotel before hopping back on the bus towards Knin and Šibenik.
Every day of the Domovina programme was a surprise and, at times, it felt like the blind leading the blind. Every evening we'd receive a riddle in our WhatsApp chat hinting at where we'd be heading the following day. In hindsight, I think the riddles became part of the fun. As much as they frustrated some of us in the moment, not knowing where we were heading each day meant we couldn't spend our time thinking about what was next. We simply had to be where we were. I'm someone who likes knowing exactly what's happening, but the more I let go of needing to know what came next, the more present I became.
Our mornings almost always began the same way. We'd find somewhere to sit together before setting off for the day. While everyone else ordered coffee, Estefania and I grabbed a Coke Zero each before stumbling across what we both still agree were some of the best protein shakes we've ever had.
The moment I saw the climb up to Knin Fortress, I got an overwhelming sense of dread. Most of us decided to make it anyway. I remember feeling as though I was melting in the satin dress I had on. At the top of the fortress stands one of Croatia's largest national flags, measuring 20 metres long. Knin Fortress was once the seat of Croatian kings and remains one of Croatia's most significant symbols of Croatian independence.
Once we reached the top, Ella's little handheld fan did the rounds between Mia, Ella and me as we all desperately tried to cool ourselves down. Even in the most uncomfortable moments, I found comfort in the fact that we were all experiencing it together. Those moments brought us even closer.
After making our way back down the hill, lunch couldn't have come soon enough. By that point in the trip, the thought of a long lunch was usually enough to get us through the morning, no matter how hot or tired we were. Stepping inside the restaurant at Knin Fortress felt like relief. We tucked into meat, potatoes, salad and what a few of us still agree was the best bread we had all trip. No one ever seemed to be in a rush to leave the table.
After a guided walking tour through Šibenik, with another coffee and ice cream break along the way, we arrived at our next hotel. We settled into our rooms and got ready for the night ahead. A few of us heard music coming from a nearby party and immediately convinced ourselves we could somehow join in. We quickly realised it was a private function, abandoned that idea and headed back to the hotel instead.
Rakija shots kicked off the evening, followed by gemišt and beers. When everyone heard the outdoor bar was closing at midnight, a few of the boys rushed over and ordered what felt like the rest of the beer behind the bar. It was surprisingly quiet around the hotel, so it almost felt like we had the place to ourselves. Our team leaders sat nearby while the rest of us gathered around the same coffee table, like teachers sitting off to the side at a school dance while everyone else enjoyed themselves.
As the evening went on, there was an ease to it that felt impossible to resist. Everyone's energy was contagious. I found myself laughing, dancing and letting go just as much as everyone else. It felt like I was a teenager again. There was nowhere else I needed to be, nothing I needed to think about and no responsibilities other than enjoying the moment with the people around me.
I still find myself listening to Baile Inolvidable by Bad Bunny. Its title translates to "Unforgettable Dance". That song became inseparable from that evening and everything it came to represent for me.
